Tamale

Hello All,

Again, I apologize for the delay! I have been in Tamale without interenet for a few days. It was amazing.  The Autism Center didnt have school this week so I went to the North (13 hours on a bus!) to teach acting to a group of students who I contacted through the Theatre of the Oppressed website. I think that may be my new direction because it seems to be a great combination of all my interests (acting and travel and cultural interest etc etc). It was so refreshing to be talking about theatre again and really starting a conversation with people who were not only interested in acting, but in the persuit of an honest medium to share story and tie people together. I wish I had known about it earlier so I could have spent more time in Tamale- next time...

I also was able to visit a village about 30 minutes out of town which was an incredibly surreal experience. We were invited into the "chief's assistant's" hut, where we had to kneel and answer a series of what I could glean to be questions regarding our purpose and then he spoke to the men who brought us for a while...after that we could go see the chief, who was sitting under a tree mind you...amazing.

Anyway, Tamale is beautiful and the people are amazing. We stayed with a family with two young girls, which was so nice, the eldest's birthday is today which is also adorable. I told/read her The Tempest which she loved (kept wanting to read Miranda's lines) so I left it as a birthday present...from one actor to hopefully another (also the incredible moment that was giving a little girl in Ghana the play credited with the allegory of the cave was unforgettable).

It's starting to settle in that I will be home this time next week, and I can't really figure out how to feel about it...It has flown by and I am not ready to come home but I also know that in order for me to be most effective when I come back, I need to do more at home and with education...I also cant wait to be back on stage, which has been a surprising realization I have had here. I sincerely miss acting, which means it's time for me to get back to it more seriously and I can't wait.

I am editing some pictures, so as soon as those are done I will upload them as well. Also, just a reminder that EVERYONE who contributed will be receiving some pictures once I return since the mailing and skyping from school turned out to be not as feasible as expected.

Off Week...

Hello Everyone,

So this week has been a little weird...bound to happen eventually I expect. There must be something in the air though, because all of the other girls are having similar experiences. One of my friends is really sick and we went to the WORST hospital I have ever been to and I spoke to some of the most incompetent people I have ever encountered...included the Americans from my travel insurance company, one of whom asked me which state Ghana was in....also this was the second time I had spoken to them in 24 hours (because I had to get pills for my HUGE bug bites that were swelling my ankles) and one person told me my account had been canceled in 2011 and the other told me she didn't think they covered Africa...

...travel insurance...insurance for those traveling in another country...who may need assistance faster than the HOUR I spent on the phone...

yep.

Anyway, I left work early this afternoon due to mounting frustrations with the lack of really any education at the center and took my friend to the dr. (the good one this time) where we found out she was misdiagnosed with malaria, which she does not have, and was prescribed something completely unnessecary...thankfully yours truly was there last night and told the hospital no way was she taking anything (shots none-the-less) unless they did blood work and found out what she actually had. It just is terrifying because there is a lot of "malaria" diagnosis here with very little/ no actual medical questioning or tests, which means there could be a serious amount of people who are very sick and taking the wrong medications or letting it go because "malaria" is so common... there's the big picture thought for today.

Oh, another reality check was there is a fast food place (Chicken Republic) down the street and one of our Ghanaian friends got nuggets last night (I wasn't eating there, I came home and she had brought them with her) and she took one bite and spit it out, "What is this?! This is NOT chicken!" To which I replied, "that's actually what most children in America think of when they think of chicken." She was speechless.

In other (brighter) news, I found a school in a region called Tamale that is an arts high school- very very small- which does Theatre of the Oppressed- look it up, it's amazing and I'm kind of obsessed- which has offered to pay me for a week long workshop, so I will be headed up there on the 27th of July to actually teach acting in Africa...which is something I have been talking about doing for years. It should be amazing and one of my friends is coming with me because she's a film maker and wants to check out the school as well...also, because we are both not being utilized at the school and it's torture and heartbreak and that is to be honest, and entire other blog entry (or novel).

OH. Also, here are some questions I have for the US that have sparked conversation here...

1. WTF, Florida? (Casey Anthony, OJ Simpson, George Zimmerman, Jodi Arias...)

2. Rolling Stone cover with the Boston Bomber??

3. Name the top 2 issues in the Supreme Court right now...you can't but Ghanaians can for their country and ours...

4. The US just shipped millions of condoms here to help prevent aids...some Ghanaian government officials want people to have to be Baptised before they can buy them...

5. I have seen the following t-shirts on people with no shoes who have to sleep in the street (where they also defecate) Louis Vuitton, Dunder Mifflin, The Steelers, the WYOMING COWBOYS, Chanel, Florida (see #1)...the list goes on. Watch where you donate your clothes...because it all comes here or somewhere similar where people sell it for pennies...

Sorry- didn't mean to get on the soap box, but it's serious food for thought....

Jeffrey

Myself (US- Chapman University), Wan (Singapore- Cambridge), Maddy (US-Carleton College),  Jane (US- Harvard)

Bojo Beach

Street Market- Don't be fooled, we walked hours to find this one. 

Paco. Such a great kid. This is his camera face. :)

Russell...always this dirty...and confused. :)

Nathan!

Mamma Mia

Whew...where to start?? It's been a pretty calm week...I was super tired and kind of sick yesterday, so I didn't go to work...which was ok because today it didn't seem like anyone really noticed. I found a place that has relatively cheap salad yesterday so I indulged in some nutrients which made such a huge difference (just in case we forgot- my diet consists of chicken(?) and rice...a lot like college). I also spent 3 HOURS at the seamstress yesterday because I had some skirts made, which is great, one is like a mermaid tail though, but I don't want to go back to have it altered, so you'll most likely just see me rocking it state-side...anyway, I was exhausted so I just came home and relaxed and slept.

Today was pretty good at work, we were asked our opinions on what could be done to improve the school/there is a new center opening in Tema (33km) from here in September, so it was so refreshing to share all the frustrations we have been experiencing in a positive way...they want us (the volunteers) to go see the new school site next weekend as well, which should be great. After work I took a nap (I know, super exciting) and then we all went out for pizza- at Mamma Mia, a kind of famous pizzeria, which was great because it's so nice to actually get to talk to everyone about life and what we all want and how we are experiencing the country together...

Also, I was offered a part time job (10 day workshop) in Tamale, which is the northern region, teaching acting for a small school with Theatre of the Oppressed, which is one of my favorite forms, so I may do that the last weeks I am here...figure I already made it to Ghana, another 7 hour bus ride isn't going to kill me (especially to take part in something I have researched on my own for years). 

Anyway...sorry I'm so boring today! (Remember, I'm boring in Africa though, so that counts for something)! Keep you all posted as things progress. 

<3 Nicole

When we refused to pay for entry to the rainforest (and wait for the 1000 other people to get in) and forged our own way...

Elmina Beach...magic...

Singing on top of a lighthouse on the 4th of July

Eric's house- Elmina

Cape Coast Beach

At school! This child is pure joy.

You know, playing on the beach in Africa...

Part One

In an attempt to share this experience as honestly as possible...straight from my journal, here is the first part of maybe a travel essay? We'll see...any feedback is appreciated.

If someone were to ask me to describe my time in Ghana- which someone, proverbial or otherwise inevitably will- I am already beginning to fear how I will respond. I guess I would attempt to paint a picture instead of describing events? because I think that is the only way I could make it work (fundamental I know, but bear with me). It wouldn't begin with palm trees or monkeys or Kente cloth or elephants, the way I assume people will assume this time would…I would probably begin with the smell, and the dust…

You are invited…that's what they say here…

You are invited to walk through this smelly, dusty, sticky cloud of a city. Packed with people and presence…this place is unlike any I've ever experienced before, not in the sense that I stand out even before I can attempt t assimilate, not because I have become accustomed to the pace and the energy, but because I think that to come to this country, to really be here, you have to come to terms almost immediately with your social nakedness and be willing to wrap yourself in not what you thought Africa was, but what you become when you are here. 

Ghana is the most genuine and honest and uninhibited environment I have been a part of in my limited travels. There is no room for secrets here: don't misunderstand, mystery abounds, but secrecy seems a little futile and worthless. 

No one is hiding from any sort of reality. You can tell at a glance how poor- or more obviously how rich- someone is. If you need help or look interesting (or white) the door for conversation is wide open. Again though, there is a veil that the people seem shrouded in…a sort of mosquito net of African-ness and pride that I fear I can never truly penetrate for obvious reasons and maybe a few more subtle ones I will never understand, but it makes me no less passionately curious about what is behind that curtain. 

I imagine we are walking as I describe this to you, and you are starting to realize that you can't smell the city anymore; no it hasn't gotten better, you are just becoming used to it. Your eyes don't sting from the dust and the sun like they did yesterday and you are following me fearlessly- well, maybe not fearless yet but with less apprehension- across the undivided and busy street amid taxis and hawkers and goats with chickens at our feet. We are walking nowhere in particular and we're not speaking because it's so loud, but somehow in all the noise you- and I, I can assure you- are thinking more clearly and quickly than you have let yourself in longer than you care to admit. And after a while, you realize that you want to not only speak to me, but to every person we pass…every hand that grabs your elbow is no longer a threat, but an invitation…you are invited to know them, and in that conversation know you.

I stop to buy us water from a girl no older than eleven, pink flip flops and a matching dress, aluminum bowl perched perfectly on her head… I stop only because it's the weekend so I know she can't be skipping school to sell (which is often the case) and secondly, and I can't help but laugh, because you are really hot. Soon you'll get used to it and understand that there is no point in worrying about how dirty you are or how sweaty your backpack is making you or how frizzy your hair is (look at mine!)- I mean, yeah…it's really hot. and sticky. Yes, even when it rains, and it probably won't anyway…I know it looks like it will. I know it's hard because everyone here is beautiful, but you'll get used to it. 

We're walking again now and you're biting the corner off your water bag, wondering where to spit the plastic- the ground is the counterintuitive answer. Every child we pass waves and points and laughs- yes at you- but that's something else you'll get used to; and we continue along silently down this raucous, sweaty, sticky rabbit hole. 

After a long week...

Hello All,

I apologize for the delay! Life is a little crazy out here. I am fine, which is the first thing, and Ghana is wonderful. I feel like I am finally starting to settle in a little. We walk everywhere, which is great because I have a real feel for the city and the people and where I need to be and go...a typical day begins at 7am (when the roosters wake us up...which was novel for the first couple days, but after a while makes me question my sanity). We walk to work at 8:30 (all the girls in the hostel are working, so we don't really hang out except for at night; 2 of us are at the Autism Center, one is a a local paper and the other 2 are at a fashion house downtown). Once I arrive at the center, I go into the upper class (students aged 11-15) and we attempt "academics." The structure is very loose, which I think is the whole country, and so it really is just helping moment-to-moment as we can with whichever student we are able to work with...there are up to 7 students in my classroom, but often there are upwards of 10 adults so it's very cramped and hectic and there is a lot of nothing going on, which if you know me makes me furious. It has been quite an adjustment and an exercise in patience, that's for sure.

Other than that though, the students are amazing kids; only two are verbal, which is always a challenge,   but I am starting to get to know what means what with each student which makes everything a little easier. Most of the work we did last week was to enhance fine motor skills, so it was a lot of beading and painting and craft sort of projects...The other girl in my house who works there and the two Danish girls we also work with usually go to lunch together at street kitchens, which are exactly what you would imagine...it's a little tiny kitchen on the street, usually we get chicken and rice (super spicy jolof rice) and every once in a while an avocado...the whole meal is between 2-3 cedi which is like $1.50ish... and the portions are huge. I am starting to develop a weird thing with eating chicken though because they run around everywhere, and when you are sitting there eating chicken and a scraggly one runs by, it just makes you question...

Last weekend we traveled to Cape Coast and Elmina castle, which were the ports that the British exported slaves from to the US...it is terrifying and completely mind blowing that people treated other people that poorly... other than the sadness hanging in the air around the castle, Elmina is gorgeous. I would love to go back (and actually might spend my last week there because school will be out and I'll have 6 days to just be here). The beaches are gorgeous and the people are amazing (actually across the board, Ghanaians are the most incredibly genuine group of people I have ever met) but Elmina is a little magical...it reminded me so much of Burano, Italy... a little fishing village/island off Venice...

I will say that since I have gotten the Africa bug, I don't think it is going to stop...it is almost overwhelming how much I want to see all of this continent, because you can just feel how different everyone is from region to region and I can only imagine how fascinating that would be to experience on a national level across the continent. I need a job that will let me travel, pay me to travel, because I have said it before, but I feel so much more at home and content (and I say content very loosely because it's a scary word) when I am in motion...

Anyway, there's the novel for the day, I hope all is well where-ever you all are! I'll be better this month/week about keeping you informed. I'll be taking more pictures today, so be on the look out!

Loads of Love,
~~Nicole

PS. Didn't do anything for the Fourth of July...sad sad day.

Street Kitchen- the one without avocados...

Lighthouse in Jamestown

View from the top of the lighthouse...

Yours truly on the top of the lighthouse (which is still used today- all the boats in the bay don't leave until dark,  next time you eat an African lobster...this is where it probably came from)

Nathan. This is too great of a picture not to share. 

National Theatre of Ghana; given to the country by the Chinese as a "thank you" for doing business with them...

Obruni Crossing

So- I was initiated into Africa this evening...myself and six of the other girls in the house (Obruni = white person and I walked around for 5 hours today without seeing another one, so imagine the commotion when six of us went out together) went to reggae night on the beach...needless to say, amazing. We just danced (all in our long skirts might I add) and laughed and yes, it was cheesy, but also yes, it was amazing. A man came up to me and said- you look so happy to be in my country- and I obviously just said yes.

I know I've only been here a couple days, and it is in so very many ways, scary, but it is also in so many ways I feel like exactly where I need to be. The girls here are amazingly diverse (culturally, experiences, emotionally, everything) yet we all somehow found ourselves here...also I feel like it's pertinent to add that it took me traveling over 5000 miles to have a girls night out ( a concept which is not as acceptable as an excuse to ward off men here as it is back home). Regardless...it was great. I head to the school tomorrow to actually begin what I came here to do, which should be exciting. Met some students at reggae night who are also volunteering there, so that will be fun to see them all again (also additionally...an additional addition if you will...I am the oldest one here?! Which never happens...)

I feel like so much of me can't get used to the idea that I am actually here, it is so different but in so many ways so so easy to be here- I mean, we still had to figure out who was going to pay whom for dinner and cabs, I've seen so many kids who are just the same as the kids back home, cab drivers are still terrifying...there are just goats and chickens in the roads at all times here...

Some fun facts for those who would like to know the nitty gritty  (which I know is everyone)

-I took my first hot shower a couple of minutes ago...glorious.
-We ride around (when not in a cab) in a gutted van with rows of seats called a tro-tro... you hop on and off and there is a man who jumps in and out and clicks at people from the side to let you know if there is room in there...
-I ate a coconut off the street, drank the water and used the coconut as a spoon
-I also ran INTO a tro-tro and have a quite gnarly scratch and bruise on my arm
-Saw the soccer stadium (the one from the World Cup)
-Did my first load of laundry by hand (here, not ever)
-It is very very hot and sticky- just what you'd expect Africa to be
-The volunteer coordinator (who lives in the house) finished 9th in the last Accra International Marathon and runs 3 HOURS every other morning starting at 3am...I may have to take up running just to say I did it

Ok- I also have to sleep. Love to all...

~Nicole

Arrival

24 hours later…

I don’t even know where to begin…the adventure began almost immediately, after I landed in Atlanta- where it was raining- I discovered that our connection to NYC was delayed, which meant our flight to Accra would leave without us…I say us because there were 36 of us who were supposed to catch the Accra flight...I met a Ghanaian man named Osei who was in Atlanta burying his son- which was super sad, it was his first time traveling and I felt so badly that all the delay shenanegens were his first experience with the US on top of the loss of his son. So we paired up and this incredibly kind Delta ramp agent named Terry who was actually off the clock but took care of Osei and I literally until we got on the plane. Atlanta to NYC was pretty uneventful, and we had to book it to the next gate- B22- and we got on the plane, I slept for an hour, and when I woke up we were still parked on the runway…super long story there was something wrong with the plane and they had to deplane everyone. There was a mini little mob at the ticket counter because there weren’t enough hotel rooms or something? So basically we had to sleep on the floor in the airport, which I did not do because I spent the whole night on the phone with my dad and the program to make sure someone would be there to pick me up since the flights were delayed…so bottom line we obviously made it on the plane…I have a row to myself, which was great because I just passed out for most of the flight. It will be 10:30pm when I get there…I think there’s something really weird and sad about flying through the whole day…not that it’s wasted, but it’s just odd....an odd way to spend the whole time that the sun is out in a chair- kind of reconciled with the idea that this is how you spend the time….I have watched an intense amount of Girls…starting to get close…only an hour left…it’s actually happening!